Lessee . . . the clam chowder? No, the corn chowder. No, the — enough, already. Why not have it all with a bowl of the Chef Jules Signature Clam and Corn Chowder at ELEVEN FORTY NINE RESTAURANT? It contains both feature ingredients, a sprinkle of the latter accenting the former. It’s milky rather than cloyingly creamy, which also lets the broth come through stronger. The combination sings, with a bass note of salt pork. (The accompanists are two small, especially flavorful clam cakes.) The chowder makes you wonder what other combinations are possible for the indecisive. No, rosé was not invented by someone who couldn’t decide between Pinot Grigio and a light Merlot. But how about, oh, genetically engineering a ham steak that also has real beef in it? Think about it.

Eleven Forty Nine Restaurant | 1149 Division Street, Warwick | 401.884.1149 | elevenfortyninerestaurant.com